At the centre of this piece is a pitch-black moment in what was already one of the darkest periods in modern history. However, surrounding it is stunning beauty, great joy, and a country of genuine freedom – Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country never to have been colonised by a Western power, in part because Britain and France agreed in 1896 to make the Chao Phraya valley a buffer state.
Amongst biking, hiking, kayaking, and, most relevantly, railing across Thailand, there will be…