Some cities dazzle on arrival. Lisbon lingers. You tune into it, like a radio station caught between frequencies: the sun warming tiled walls, laundry snapping overhead, a guitar echoing somewhere far off. For my first-ever visit, I didn’t want to stand at a distance. I wanted to slip into the city’s rhythm, to stay somewhere that felt part of it. Airbnb led me to Antiga Casa Pessoa, a quiet apartment building with an unassuming façade in Lisbon’s historic Baixa district.
But this…