Why the Winery Allocation System Feels So Outdated Now

This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files, our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here.

Imagine walking to the hostess stand at a nearly empty restaurant, requesting a table for two, and being asked if you have a reservation. As you look around at all the available tables and inform the hostess that you don’t, she scrolls through her tablet, makes a faint huffing noise, cranes her neck, peers into the practically unoccupied dining room,…