Dubai’s unsung homegrown food scene is making waves

Inside Boca, a breezy, biophilic tapas restaurant in the heart of Dubai‘s financial district, the after-work crowd is drinking at the bar. Downstairs I’ve joined friends for dinner in the private dining room located in the restaurant’s wine cellar. Many bottles in the collection are from Morocco, Lebanon and elsewhere in the Middle East and North Africa. We start with oysters harvested from Dibba Bay in Fujairah, the easternmost of the United Arab Emirates, on the Gulf of Oman. Opened a…