Carnation Canteen – Gourmet Traveller

Carnation Canteen charms quickly and emphatically. It starts with the former corner shop’s crisp white exterior that seems to glow as you approach in the late afternoon light, as if it’s pleased to see you.

Then there’s the serene, minimalist dining room, calming service and a deft, democratic wine list that runs the gamut from excellent (often expensive) grower Champagne to well-priced Italian house wine served by the glass or carafe. Relax, it seems to say, we’ve…