The Viennese like their institutions, particularly when it comes to eating and drinking. The grand cafe for rustling the day’s newspaper over a melange (the local caffeine fix); the heuriger, or wine tavern, for a glass of something grown in the city’s vineyards and a plate of pickles; the gasthaus for pub grub and beisl, or bistro. The Viennese waltz between them, depending on mood and occasion. From their menus, you might be mistaken for thinking Austrian cuisine is all about the…

