Watching Jeremy Chan and his staff working in their open kitchen at Ikoyi, one of the top restaurants in London, is like watching a choreographed dance. Graceful and diligent, each team member seems to glide through service, producing food unlike anything I’ve ever had. The dishes here are described as “spice-based cuisine”, which Chan builds around British micro-seasonality, so it isn’t ascribed to any nation or the often reductive term ‘fusion.’
“I don’t like talking in the…

