Termoli: an Italian town you’ve probably never heard of, in a part of Italy you may well never have passed through. Slotted between Abruzzo and Puglia, the region of Molise – Italy’s second-smallest – reaches deep into the peninsula, its Adriatic coastline an agro-industrial plain and its mountainous inner reaches marked by woodland, half-abandoned medieval villages and an ancient Roman settlement. Surrounded by newer, municipal sprawl, Termoli’s borgo antico juts into the sea on a…

