Every year in late July, some 20,000 bartenders descend on New Orleans for a gathering called Tales of the Cocktail, what is, for the cocktail community, easily the stickiest party of the year. New Orleans summers are famously brutal—the average high tops 90 degrees, with humidity ranging from oppressive to fascistic—and attendees sweat their way in lines through the city, plodding from big brand party to big brand party, hoping to be handed something in their cups that can melt the…

