Joel Valvasori-Pereza might have named the family’s osteria after grandmother Luigia, yet much about Lulu La Delizia reflects his own tastes. The portraits in this dark, squeezy den are painted by his hand; the soulful blues you’ll bop to are of his choosing, as is the restaurant’s big-hitting brand of cucina Italiana. With Valvasori-Pereza now spearheading the slick, self-assured service, the kitchen’s output is handled by head chef James Higgs. A key part of his remit is…

