“You better get up here.” This was the message from my travelling companion as our ship pushed up the Bosphorus to Istanbul. I was in our room laying clothes in a suitcase for the first time in 12 days. A tiny cloud of grief hung over me: packing a bag hadn’t been necessary since we left Barcelona nine ports and many Champagnes ago, sailing under clear skies through calm waters as the last wisps of summer blessed our passage. How to cope with the mundanity of squeezing a suitcase…

