I spent decades avoiding the ocean – surfing in Indonesia helped me conquer my fear

Inspired by Homer’s epic, this series explores the journeys that changed our editors’ lives. From conquering fears in Indonesia and postpartum resets in Greece via existential epiphanies in Paris, these are modern odysseys to inspire your next adventure. Here, features writer Noo Saro-Wiwa reflects on a trip which rewired a deep-seated fear.

I have always had an overwhelming fear of the ocean – its power and depth, the creatures lurking in its gargantuan swells. It is a monster. Japanese…