New York has never treated brunch as simply breakfast served late. It is a social sport, a recovery strategy, an excuse for Champagne before noon and, at its most extravagant, a perfectly acceptable opportunity to put caviar on eggs. The city has mastered every possible iteration: the grand hotel brunch, the downtown institution, the impossible reservation, the celebrity magnet, and the bottomless afternoon that accidentally becomes dinner. These are the 20 brunches…

