Naples is Italy’s third-largest city, sprawling, crowded, chaotic and noisy. Add the local dialect echoing through the streets to the mix, and it can feel a little overwhelming at times. But it’s also a magical, intoxicating and fascinating place, full of contradictions yet achingly beautiful in parts and brimming with extraordinary artistic treasures. I’ve been visiting regularly for three decades and have seen enormous change, not least in the tourist numbers which have exploded…
Naples guide: 8 unwritten rules you need to know before visiting, to act like a local Neapolitan
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