drinking from the fountain of life

As we veer off the highway, the landscape becomes green and mountainous. Following the curves of the road, my husband Marco points out the path that the old tram used to take to bring passengers here from Rome. We’re only about 60 kilometers from the city, but we’re deep in the heart of rural Ciociaria, one of the most under-the-radar areas in Italy.

The name Fiuggi may not ring any bells for the average person, but the town has drawn wellness seekers for centuries thanks to its mineral…