While you’re there: A drive up the Hartland coast, with its clifftop walks, beautiful beaches and spots such the Speke’s Mill Mouth waterfall, is a must, perhaps going as far as the similarly spectacular Tunnels Beaches tidal pool in Ilfracombe. Also recommended is coming back for shepherd’s pie stuffed with local hogget at The Farmers Arms, a gastro-pub in tiny Woolfardisworthy owned by tech entrepreneur Michael Birch. To the east, Praktyka is an art-driven retreat of cabins, domes…

