Alaska, as a state, is not for beginners. Anyone who’s ever spent any time there can attest to that. Its startling beauty is matched by its danger. It feels like America without the net.
It is, first of all, massive, and hugely wild: Only 20 percent is accessible by road at all, and medical attention can be days away. Most of the year, the water gets so cold that you would go into shock in minutes and sink like a stone. The tides alone can kill you. Sure, everyone knows…

