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In praise of the short wine list

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If it was my last night on Earth, I’d want the wine to be chosen by Daniel Illsley, wine director of London’s Maison François. He has a wicked sense of humour and a knack for knowing – often before I even do – exactly what wine I want. To me, he’s not just a sommelier, he’s a vinous agony aunt.

Illsley’s classy-yet-inquiring wine list made with Joseph…

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