Earlier this year the Michelin guide released its first Mexican edition. Among the 18 grand establishments awarded at least one star was a cash-only taquería in the working-class San Rafael neighbourhood of Mexico City called El Califa de León. The only street-food stand to make the list, it has been open since 1968. And now, thanks to the Michelin star, it is probably the only taco stand in Mexico where the waiting time is up to three hours.
When I visited on a recent trip to Mexico…