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EAT has been a New York institution for 50 years. It only gets more delicious

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Eli Zabar is always striving for perfect. The perfect whitefish (“I’m always testing to see if there’s enough lemon”), the perfect cheesecake. Right now he’s trying to replicate a bread he had in Paris (“There’s this crust! I want that crust”). His goal, he says, is to make food you want to break a corner off. And his speciality food store and…

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