Cast adrift from mainland Italy, the Mediterranean’s largest island has been caught in the crosshairs of civilisations for centuries. Fraught as this may have been, it has rendered the island totally unique – Sicily is a fierce melting pot of cultures and customs, a place that potently exhibits the indelible effect of architecture, community spirit, food and phenomenal landscapes on humans. Conquered, invaded, coerced – the layers of history are manifest throughout the island, from the…