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Even so, San Juan and its surrounding neighbourhoods continue to be the island’s gastronomic epicentre. Cocina al Fondo, run by the 2023 James Beard Awards winner for Best Chef (South) Natalia Vallejo, is set in a refurbished traditional casita, or home, where you can dine on arroz con conejo (stewed rabbit rice) alfresco, amid a chorus of tiny coqui frogs. Her food is at once nostalgic and inventive, each dish rooted in island terroir. Orujo by Carlos Portela offers a rotating chef-driven…
