This misunderstood Caribbean island is transforming into a creative’s paradise

Viñales is also El Cuajaní – my favourite restaurant on the island – a whitewashed cottage in a field with a thatched roof overhanging with mauve fausto flowers. I cannot come here without eating the white-bean hummus, and red snapper stuffed with piquillo peppers and taro. The fresh country food, the beauty of the setting and the warmth of the owners, Berta Carral and José Luis Gómez, are unmatchable. Afterwards, we return to Deulofeu’s…