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It bodes well for any meal when the opening dish is so good you close your eyes to better concentrate on its flavour. The dish, from the menu at the recently relaunched Anchovy, is a wedge of crisp, cold sapo melon compressed with ginger and sprinkled with tangy plum salt that’s both pretty and punchy. It’s a triumph of palate-cleansing, appetite-whetting simplicity. And it gets better from there.
Thi Le and Jia-Yen Lee’s brilliant modern Vietnamese diner has been…
