Remembering how to ride on Iceland’s breathtaking west coast

There is no better way to discover a place than to ride through it on horseback. We travel through spaces that cannot be traversed on foot: craggy lava fields opening up into wide rusty red plains, grassy hillsides dusted in lilac moss and deep rushing rivers, each set against a backdrop of volcanos and the occasionally steamy hot spring. After a gallop along the beach under beautiful clear skies, we spot two huge eagles perched on a cliff edge just metres ahead. At lunch, the whole group…