The reassuring beigeness of fish pie

Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free

Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.

Fish pie as most of us know it — flaky fish baked in a béchamel sauce — is as intrinsic to Britain’s culinary culture as Scotch eggs and roast chicken. Like its cousin, shepherd’s pie, it typically forgoes pastry for mashed potato.

In the wrong hands, it can be dreadful. But with fresh ingredients and a couple of twists, a fish pie is a luxury dish. Hungry…