Warsaw is a shy city. It is one that has successfully escaped the attention given to other, often less exciting, European capitals; the disordered architectural styles piled on each other throughout decades of postwar reconstruction often obscure, rather than flaunt, the city’s charms. There is no centre in the traditional sense; rather, Warsaw is a collection of districts, each with its own personality and purpose.
The first-time visitor’s reflex is often to begin with a walk through…

