For the last few years, Lanzarote has been having a moment. A smart new generation of cool boutique hotels is supported by a growing clan of island creatives, and frequented by a new breed of design-savvy, Leica-toting visitor, especially from Spain. In a sense, nothing much has changed: this is still an ever-clement island dotted with volcanoes, quirky beaches and the pleasingly retro whitewashed modernism of César Manrique, the great mid-century designer-artist-planner who effectively…

