Sunday, September 13, 2026

HomeGeneral News"Life is finite and chaotic!" Reflections of a surfer who almost died

“Life is finite and chaotic!” Reflections of a surfer who almost died

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If you’ve got the physical means to go for a wave,
go get one for me.

I almost died a few weeks back. Eighteen days in hozzy,
three wrapped up in wires in ICU.
I’ve had a lot of time
in a hospital bed and on the couch to think about things.

The cause of this sudden health challenge was a…



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