Alnwick is known for two dramatic set pieces: its eponymous castle (home of the Duke of Northumberland) and Alnwick Garden, the castle’s imaginatively recreated garden. Otherwise, it’s a modest, if hard-working, town of family-owned shops, an excellent second-hand book store, an enterprising theatre and a ho-hum range of pubs and cafes.
To eat out interestingly, you head to the coast (a clutch of fishy places) or the wilds of the countryside (a sprinkling of Michelin stars). A tiny former…

