At home in the Hebrides

Imagine a journey in the depths of winter from London to the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. EasyJet to Glasgow, Loganair to Stornoway, then an hour and half’s drive across a landscape of peat bogs and glassy lochans, as if the island cannot decide which dimension it belongs to: sea or rock? Past the ferry port at Tarbert, the darkness thick as treacle, the road narrows to a single track. Finally we arrive at a house named Caochan na Creige. The Gaelic phrase means “little quiet…