Golden Century, Sydney: Restaurant Review

Ask any long-term Sydney diner and they’ll probably tell you that the golden century of restaurants was the 20th. It was a time of long lunches and limitless expense accounts. No smartphones meant big nights – and any corresponding misbehaviour – vanished without evidence.

A jewel of the era was Golden Century Seafood Restaurant in Haymarket, the city’s most storied Cantonese haunt, which opened its doors (and left them open most nights until 4am) in 1989. The XO…