How sherry got chic again

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It’s 2pm on a Friday in Bar Valette, The Clove Club’s new restaurant in east London, and lunch is in full swing. On the white-clothed tables (pictured above) are morsels inspired by chef Isaac McHale’s travels in Spain and France. A blackboard on the wall reads: “Martini Tuxedo, raw ceps, hazelnut, snails Madrid Style + LOTS OF SHERRY.”