Welcome to Taste Test, where every week our critic Jonah Flicker explores the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Sunday for his latest whiskey review.
Let’s get straight to the point: A bourbon this old shouldn’t be this good. Twenty-seven years in a barrel, through hot and humid Kentucky summers and icy cold winters, should turn a bourbon into a tannic oak bomb. Of course, this particular bourbon didn’t exactly suffer through those…

