A man, wearing straw sandals and a conical straw hat, carefully wraps his belongings in a reddish-orange cloth decorated with white swirls. He ties the ends into a handle, which he loops over his head and sets off up the hill. His mission? To walk part of the way along the historic Tokaido Road.
With a combination of walking and public transport, I too am about to experience sections of the Tokaido Road. Also known as the Eastern Sea Route, the road linked Edo (modern Tokyo), the center…

