In Yiddish, the beautiful, historical language of Europe’s Ashkenazi Jews, Bubala means darling or sweetheart. It’s a word often used by doting grandparents – a fitting name for a series of restaurants that pride themselves on feeding customers as if they’re adored offspring. It’s a homely place full of good cheer and hearty cooking. Quietly vegetarian – there are, mercifully, no lectures on provenance or farming techniques – Bubala takes its cues from the Levant and the Maghreb,…

