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The first time I went to Málaga, more than three decades ago, this Andalusian provincial city was an unreconstructed harbour town with little to recommend beyond its balmy subtropical climate and its situation on a sweeping Mediterranean bay. The streets of its centro histórico were grimy, traffic-ridden, and best avoided at night. Culturally speaking, I found there wasn’t much to write home about on a tacky tourist postcard. However, more recent visits have revealed a very different…
