Snack attack: Have menus in Australian restaurants lost the plot?

They’re seductive, snacks. A little sneaky too, the way they’ve begun colonising an ever-increasing amount of real estate at the top of restaurant menus.

Alluringly dressing what might be considered a semi-shameful culinary kink in fine-dining drag: a potato gem, topped with crème fraîche and caviar, a morsel of fried chicken turned edgy with house-fermented chilli, a tiny crumpet piled with raw tuna or crab meat. You’d be a stronger person than me to resist those…