Locals would never refer to this warm embrace of an Italian seaside town by its official name, Santa Margherita Ligure. That sounds fancy; and for all its elegant belle époque hôtellerie and baroque churches, Santa is far from fancy.
That sobriquet can be applied, for sure, to Portofino, five kilometres to the south, where for at least a century aristocrats, celebrities and captains of industry such as Gianni Agnelli have come to cosplay at living in a typical fishing village. The kind…

