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At Maison Passerelle, the new art deco brasserie at the Manhattan branch of French department store Printemps, the shrimp cocktail presentation is impressive, the ocean trout elegantly plated with cracker-crisp skin, the coconut chiboust light and airy to close out the meal. But the best thing on the menu might be the homeliest, a simple bowl of rice and beans, the recipe inspired by chef Gregory Gourdet’s mother’s home cooking.
“It’s the first thing my mom taught me to make when I…
