R by Raita Noda, Redfern

“Theatre restaurant”. Words to strike fear into any heart and evoke visions of blousy frauleins juggling steins of ale and yodelling. Or conference-quality food served by actors in dracula suits, swooping around the tables and demanding “audience participation”. So when I saw R by Raita Noda, the new omakase restaurant in Sydney’s Wunderlich Lane precinct, describe itself as a “theatre restaurant”, I was wary. Would the chefs – the eponymous Raita Noda himself and his…