In theory, Saint Peter at the Grand National Hotel is not a new restaurant. To owners Josh and Julie Niland, their new spacious Paddington premises is more or less business as usual: presenting the ocean’s finest fish – from cheek to eye, from scale to skeleton – in some of the most creative dishes you’ll find anywhere on the globe. To diners, the new enterprise is a supercharged take on the original Saint Peter. The dining room is no longer a squishy counter, but instead a…

