A Journey Woven Through Indonesia’s Isles

When the first thing you see in the half-light of morning is the glowing lava and rising ash of a volcano, that would seem to be the only logical response. Or at least to me. But in this corner of the Pacific’s so-called ‘ring of fire,’ there are more than 120 active volcanoes, and the crew on board — all locals — are far less startled by the gentle puffs of Mount Ile Lewotolok as we slip off in a tender for some dawn fishing. As the sun rises, with birdsong drifting…