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The magic of the Venice Film Festival is real, as I discovered—on the screen and the red carpets, the vaporettos and the streets of Lido. Venice is now considered the first stop on the yellow brick road to the Oscars, where awards contenders find their first rapt audiences. But much of the glamour of the festival manifests itself behind the scenes, in the parties and galas held in hotels, old industrial buildings, or on the tiny islands dotted around Venice.
One of the grandest rituals is…
