But the big waves called, and he has carved an impressive path — surfing some of the biggest waves ever recorded at Nazaré, Portugal and winning the 2025 Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge for best team performance. Here, he speaks with Roberta Naas about mortality, superstitions and the fine line of control.
Tell us how fear plays a part in your job every time you get into the water.
Fear is always present, but it is about knowing how to conquer that fear. The first…

