Best French restaurants in London, from Clapham to Fulham

It may be the least arriviste movement of all time. London’s food scene is quietly having a French moment, with a crop of new restaurants taking timeless inspiration from across the channel. This anti-trend manifests itself in summer berry and lavender choux buns at Battersea Rise bistro Ploussard, or Basque chicken ballotine at 64 Goodge Street. It’s there, too, in the classic frog legs at Josephine in Chelsea (or the outpost in Marylebone, for that matter), the veal sweetbreads at…