Marina Yee, who died yesterday, stepped away from the fashion spotlight early on. Yet she was seen by insiders as a key figure in its development, not only as one of the “Antwerp Six,” but in building a Belgian approach to fashion, rooted in cerebral clothes, that supplanted the facile glamour of the ‘80s, setting a new fashion agenda. Alongside her own label, she influenced Martin Margiela, a former boyfriend, and was instrumental in the launch of Dirk Bikkembergs’ womenswear line.

