What to Sip When You’re Staying Sober

I’m still on the search for a really outstanding non-alcoholic wine, but sparkling non-alcs tend to be better than still — Beau Viva sparkling rosé, which is made by the same people as the popular provencale rosé Aix, is the best I’ve tried. But if you’re after a really grown-up teetotal fizz, look to sparkling teas, the very best of which can offer almost as much provenance, complexity and structure as the real thing.

Saicho sparkling teas are what I serve friends…