Getting in sync with Vietnam’s varied rhythms

Sundown in Saigon, and the streets are steaming. The air vibrates with the whir of nine million motorbikes and the chatter of eleven million people, all spilling into alleys, balconies, and roadside noodle stalls. Everywhere I look, the doors are flung open. Old-timers chew the fat over ice-cooled beers, aunties in silken pyjamas fan charcoal grills heavy with skewers of lemongrassy chicken and caramelised pork. Pocket parks double as public gyms, Vietnamese pop thrums from tinny speakers….