Every November, one of the UK’s leading Italian wine importers, Liberty Wines, hosts a tasting of new-season Tuscan olive oils (and corresponding wines) over lunch at London’s River Café – an event attended by the producers and a roll-call of well-known chefs (guests at this year’s lunch included Jamie Oliver, Henry Harris, Tomos Parry and the River Café’s own Ruth Rogers). The oils are, genuinely, straight off the presses and there’s a vitality, a vibrancy to…

